Different skin types, common concerns and the ingredients to look out for.

Understanding your skin type and the main concerns associated with it is crucial in being able to navigate the world of skincare, choose the correct products for your skin and build a routine. With so much information out there though, where do you begin?

Following is a brief overview of each skin type, the characteristics and concerns that are associated with it. As well as a list of naural ingredients and powerful botanical extracts that may be benefical in helping to address specific problems. Helping you decide on what you do and do not need, to build a personalised skincare routine for naturally healthy looking radiant skin.

Mature skin 

– not really a skin type, but something that comes to us all with age. Ageing is a natural process that cannot be stopped. However, taking good care of your skin and choosing wisely  the sort of products and ingredients you put on it can make a huge difference to how the skin looks and feels. As well as helping to reduce the appearance of visible signs of ageing.

Characteristics of Mature skin:

·         Dry skin which may feel less smooth and more rough or textured than in our youth

·         Dull, uneven or tired looking complexions

·         Fine lines and deeper wrinkles

·         Age spots / uneven skin tone / hyperpigmentation

·         Loss of firmness, contours become less defined and skin may start to sag especially around the jaw line, under the chin. Eye hoods become more apparent.

Causes: there are two classifications of skin ageing:

Chronological Aging - the natural ageing process which contributes to the appearance of the skin through natural loss of subcutaneous fat and decline of sebum production. Skin cells take longer to regenerate and the reduction of the production of our sex hormones leads to dryness, wrinkling, thinning of the epidermis, collagen breakdown and loss of elasticity.

Extrinsic Aging – caused by the external physical, environmental and chemical factors, such as exposure to UV radiation, pollution, synthetic toxins, carcinogens and lifestyle choices. All of these external factors can contribute to increased visible signs of ageing, to include, but not limited to: lines and wrinkles, hyper pigmentation, uneven skin tone and dryness.

Although we cannot completely stop the ageing process there are things we can do to help support our skin as we mature and ingredients worth looking out for. Not every mature skin will have all signs of ageing, so not every ingredient listed will be beneficial to everyone.

Identify what concerns you the most and choose skincare which incorporates the ingredients that will benefit that particular concern.

Symptoms of ageing skin and helpful ingredients

• Dry / Rough / Textured skin: Rosehip oil, sea buckthorn, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, provitamin B5, Shea butter, jojoba oil, rose hydrosol.

• Oxidative stress / Collagen Breakdown:  antioxidants, in particular: Vitamin E, Vitamin C, Carotenoids, Coenzyme Q10

• Fine Lines and wrinkles: Plant-based collagen, Hyaluronic acid, Plant Retinol / Vitamin A, Frankincense essential oil, AHA’s.

• Loss of elasticity / Sagging skin: Vitamin C, Frankincense, AHA’s, Spilanthes Acmella (Electric Daisy) Extract

• Sun damage / Hyperpigmentation: Vitamin C, Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Liquorice root, Green Tea.

• Cell Regeneration: Frankincense, AHA’s, BHA’s, Plant Retinols

• Dull / Uneven Skin tone: Liquorice Root, Plant Retinols, Niacinamide, Green Tea, Vitamin C, caffeine.

Skincare routine for mature skin:  adopt a simple routine that nourishes, hydrates and gently cares for the skin. Swap to an oil or balm type cleanser so as not to dry the skin out or strip it of natural oils. Gentle exfoliation once or twice a week. Incorporate weekly masks infused botanical actives, antioxidants and nourishing ingredients. Avoid harsh synthetic ingredients, artifical colours and fragrances.

 

Dry & Dehydrated skin

One is a skin type and one is a concern. Dry skin is a skin type and is normally genetic or the result of age, caused by age related hormonal fluctuations that result in lower sebum production (the natural oils within our skin). Although adopting an unhealthy lifestyle or using harsh or synthetic products can make the skin feel dry and tight.

Dehydrated skin is not something we are born with, but as a result of various aspects of modern-day life. Using harsh synthetic products and ingredients on the skin, unhealthy diet and not drinking enough water all contribute to dehydrated skin. As well as environmental factors such as:  central heating, air conditioning, pollution, extreme weather conditions, heat and low humidity. A damaged or weakened skin barrier is often a main cause of dehydrated (as well as sensitised) skin. When our natural skin barrier is damaged small gaps can appear causing water to evaporate from the skin leading to dehydration. This process is commonly referred to as trans epidermal water loss (TEWL). 

Characteristics of Dry and / or Dehydrated Skin:

• Flaky, scaly and dull looking skin

• Crinkles when pushed or depressed

• Can feel itchy, sore and inflamed

• May crack or feel tight when coming into contact with water

Caring for dry and dehydrated skin:

Use gentle cleansers that will not strip away natural oils, infused with soothing and hydrating ingredients, look for balms and oil-based cleansers to support barrier function. When choosing skincare products look for natural soothing, nourishing and hydrating ingredients. Keep skincare routines minimal and avoid harsh ingredients such as synthetic fragrances or harsh chemicals. Increase water intake and look at  improvements to  your diet to include a variety of fruits and vegetables to nourish, hydrate and support the skin from within.

Useful ingredients to look out for to help support Dry and / or dehydrated skin:

• Flaking, scaling and peeling skin: plant butters, seed oils especially: Jojoba, hempseed, safflower, sesame, moringa and raspberry seed oils. Sandalwood essential oil

• Dehydrated skin or cracking skin:  Hyaluronic acid & pro-vitamin B5

• Rough textured skin: Plant butters, jojoba oil, ceramides, hyaluronic acids, frankincense essential oil.

• Support barrier function and help prevent water evaporation (TEWL): Ceramides, squalane, jojoba oil, hyaluronic acid, plant butters

• Irritated / inflamed skin: Cold process and seed oils including: moringa, raspberry, jojoba, hemp, safflower and sesame seed oil.  Actives: green tea, aloe vera, pomegranate, calendula, Bisabolo extracts. Chamomile essential oil.

 

Oily and Acne Prone skin

Oily skin has a shiny appearance and is often accompanied by large, darkened pores and acne like blemishes. The T-zone (forehead, nose, chin) are often particularly impacted.

Acne is chronic inflammation of the pilosebaceous unit (hair follicle) resulting in comedones (blocked hair follicle), papules (defined bumps in the skin), pustules (lumps containing puss), cysts (lumps containing fluid, oil, dead skin cells that block pores) and scars.  *Acne is considered medical condition and those suffering from acne may need to see a dermatologist or doctor to receive medical and / or prescription treatments for severe cases.

Generally oily skin is caused by the overproduction of sebum, the skins natural oil. Men are more prone to oily skin than woman, but hormonal changes often around puberty can create more fluctuations in sebum production and potential for acne outbreaks.

Although having an oily skin type is normally genetic there are other causes and factors that can affect over production of oil and also acne, spots and blemishes in oily skin types. These include:

• Dehydrated skin – it might sound strange that having dehydrated skin can increase sebum production, but it can be your bodies way of naturally trying to maintain water and reduce water loss and evaporation (TEWL).

• Build up of dead skin cells on the skin surface layers - Skin cells are constantly turning over and dead skin cells will lie on the skins surface if not effectively removed. For those with oily or blemish prone skin this can cause spots, blemishes and acne breakouts

• Stripping the skin of natural oils  – although tempting to try and eliminate the excess oil on the skin with cleansing, this can be counterproductive. Stripping natural oils from the skin can lead the production or even more oil as the skin tries to maintain a healthy lipid barrier. Acne or blemish prone skin may already be inflamed and sensitive, so using harsh, synthetic ingredient or fragrances on it can actually make it worse.

• Comedogenic cosmetics and skincare ingredients – comedogenic ingredients are ingredients found in skincare and many cosmetics that are known to block pores and increases chances of acne breakouts. Not everyone who suffers from oily skin / acne or blemishes are sensitive to comedogenic ingredients, but as oily skin tends to have larger more open pores that are more prone to becoming blocked then these ingredients are more likely to affect your skin type than someone with normal skin for example.

• Poor diet and lifestyle choices – not consuming enough water, unhealthy fatty diets, excessive stress, lack of sleep can all have an effect of sebum production and the body’s ability to cope with blemishes or acne outbreaks.

• Skin care routines - bacteria naturally exists on the skin and is beneficial to our skins natural function and health, but disruptions to our skins microbiome or increases in harmful bacteria can contribute to blemishes and acne formation. A regular skincare routine and personal hygiene practises are essential to managing outbreaks and keeping pores clean and healthy.

Caring for oily / blemish / acne prone skin: Adopt a simple skincare routine that nourishes and hydrates the skin, without stripping it and gentle exfoliation once or twice a week to remove dead skin cells, built up sebum and debris from the skins surface. Chose non-comedogenic ingredients that do not clog pores, avoid harsh chemicals and synthetic fragrances that can strip the skin of natural oils and cause inflammation. Think clean, gentle, hydrated when planning your routine.

Useful ingredients to look out for when building a skincare routine for oily or acne prone skin:

• Overproduction of sebum – Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Geranium essential oil, palmarosa essential oil

• Water loss / Dehydration – Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid.

• Clogged pores – BHA’s, AHA’s and physical exfoliating particles

• Enlarged Pores – Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Rosemary, Geranium, Lemon, Cypress essential oils

• Antibacterial properties – tea tree, bergamot, lemon & petitgrain essential oils

• Inflammation – Green tea, aloe vera, chamomile

• Clarifying – charcoal, juniper berry and tea tree

• Acne scaring – Frankincense and lavender essential oils, rosehip oil,

• Pigmentation – AHA’s and Vitamin C

• Non-comedogenic oils – Sunflower, safflower, jojoba, squalane and castor bean oil.

Sensitive skin 

Presents in many different ways from physical reactions such as skin bumps, hives, dry and itchy inflammation to flushing and redness. When sensitive skin comes into contact with certain ingredients it can sting, burn or cause skin to further dry out and become tight, irritated and uncomfortable.

There is no overall known cause of sensitive skin, but sensitised skin has a number of potential causes:

• Overly dry, dehydrated skin

• Weak lipid barrier

• Excessive exposure to damaging environmental factors

• Allergic reactions

• Detergents and other harsh ingredients

• Poor diet, lifestyle choices and stress

• Genetic factors may play a part in having sensitive or easily sensitised skin

Because there are so many different potential causes of sensitive skin it can be harder to treat. If you have skin that is sensitive or easily sensitised it is worth taking note of products you have used or things that have happened around a flair up to try and ascertain if there are triggers, such as certain ingredients in your skincare, food or drinks or even stress. If you can identify things that cause flairs, then you can eliminate them and find alternatives that work better for you and your skin.

There are a few overall general things rules that you can start to incorporate into your skin care routine to try and help reduce the chances of further sensitising the skin, as well as helping to support and improve overall resilience

It goes without saying that treating sensitive skin gently is probably the first thing to do. Use mild, natural cleansers and skincare products. Protect the skin from environmental stresses such as wind, sun, very cold or very hot weather, air conditioning, heating and pollution by applying products that strengthen the natural lipid barrier or are designed to protect against specific environmental threats.

Look for products that have fewer ingredients, however the quality of those ingredients is of course important.

Common aggressors to look out for include:

Detergents: SLES / SLS – as these strip the skin of natural oils. It is worth mentioning here that SLSA or SCS is more often used in natural skincare products and is much milder than SLES or SLS and is normally derived from coconut or palm oil. Artificial fragrances, synthetic colours, alcohol and irritants such as AHA’s and retinoids.

Sensitive skin concerns and ingredients that may be beneficial

• Rough and dry skin: jojoba, hempseed, safflower, squalane and blackseed oil.

• Weakened skin barrier: ceramides, squalane, jojoba oil. Shea, mango and coco butter.

• Dehydrated skin: hyaluronic acid & pro vitamin B5

• Irritation and imflammation: chamomile, bisabolol, pomegranate, green tea and Pro Vitamin B5.

 

Normal skin

Skin that has no major issues or problems to address and simply needs maintaining.  A good skincare routine which includes gentle cleansing, gentle exfoliation, and nutrient rich serums and moisturisers is beneficial in helping to maintain happy healthy skin.

Ingredients that help to maintain normal skin:

• Moisture and hydration: hyaluronic acid, ceramides, plant butters and seed oils.

• Protect against free radicals, pollutants and environmental damage: anti-oxidants, especially Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Carotenoids and Co-enzyme Q10.

• Support against the visible signs of premature ageing (fine lines and wrinkles): Edelweiss extract, AHA’s and Vitamin C